The Natural Wonder of the Batu Caves

The view from front

Malaysia’s Batu Caves are famous for two things: for its naturally formed complex of caves and for having the world’s tallest statue of god Murugan. It is a place where you will feel dwarfed by the length and breadth of nature’s craftsmanship, as well as awed by the devotion of thousands of worshippers entranced in prayer.

The caves form a powerful presence, by its sheer scale and beauty, as well as its ability to have survived for millions of years. The abundant wildlife is a world unto its own. The rock formations are intricate, but overpowering. It all makes for an intense experience.

The Batu Caves are to be found in the Gombak district, in the state of Selangor in Malaysia. The caves are made of limestone, and are dated to be over 400 million years old. The Orang Asli people or the indigenous Bersisi people first inhabited the caves, followed by Chinese settlers, who came there in the 1860s. From the next decade onwards, various explorers came to document the caves and the animal life, including William Hornaday, H. C. Syers, H. N. Ridley, Cedric Dover and W. S. Bristowe.

In 1891, K. Thamboosamy Pillai, the founder of the Sri Mahamariamman temple in Kuala Lumpur, installed a consecrated statue of Lord Murugan in one of the caves at Batu, transforming the meaning of the place and extending its natural significance. According to Hindu lore, Goddess Parvati gave a spear to Lord Murugan to defeat the demon Soorapadam. Pillai believed the entrance to the main cave was of a similar shape to this spear, and was thus inspired to build a temple to Murugan.

The entrance to the Batu Caves

I was on a backpacking trip to Malaysia with my significant other (I am a newbie to backpacking), so we decided to be true to form and take a bus. The caves are located 13kms north of Kuala Lumpur. It was no trouble at all, and after a 45-minute ride we were dropped off close to the entrance. The Batu Caves make for a powerful first impression, with its sprawling green heights and rock formation. It is a wall that rises to meet you, and it’s worth taking a minute to absorb the vista in its entirety.

You enter a large ground via an impressive entrance decorated with figures from Hindu religious stories. There are lots of shops that line the way, from which you can buy all kinds of sweets, treats, knick-knacks and souvenirs. The first thing you will see is the gold statue. It is the statue of Lord Murugan, and is, as mentioned before, the world’s tallest statue of the deity, standing at 42.7m. It is made of concrete and steel bars, and is covered in gold paint. It is a shining vision of gold that can dazzle your eyes on a hot afternoon.

The magnificent statue

Oh yes, it can get very hot. It is best to get there either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The heat can drain you and make you feel tired or trigger a migraine. Make sure to drink lots of water and to take a hat or an umbrella. There’s a fair bit of climbing to do – a rather steep stairway of 272 steps with no shade. There are landings where you can catch your breath and take a few photographs. Personally, having seen a very pregnant woman climbing unaided, I decided I would not complain at all. Once at the top, the climb becomes worthwhile, because of the amazing city/mountain views stretching as far as the eye can see.

Inside it is a lot cooler, much to everyone’s relief, and soon you’ll be caught up with all the statues, paintings, stone carvings and people worshipping. The main cave, called the Temple Cave, is where you will find the main temple of Lord Murugan. All around you are statue-set scenes of bold colours, with interesting stories behind each. Look up and you’ll be greeted with soft light coming through the openings in the 100m-high ceiling. The rock surfaces are cool to the touch and are knotted and gnarled with all kinds of naturally formed patterns. Then, there are the Macaque monkeys, who are everywhere and can be quite mischievous.

Inside the main cave: Soft light pours through

There are several other caves in the complex. At the base of the hill are the Art Gallery Cave and the Ramayana Cave. The statues and paintings in the former show the story of Lord Murugan’s life. There is also an interesting statue of a five-legged bull. When alive, it is said to have lived in the temple grounds. The latter has a 50-foot statue of Hanuman, the faithful helper of Lord Rama, outside it, and the inside of the cave shows stories from Rama’s life.

Then, there are the Dark Caves, managed by the Malaysian Nature Society (MNS). Access is not for everybody: You must sign up for either the educational tour or the adventure tour with MNS. It is part of an effort to preserve the caves, thus allowing the natural cycles to run their course with minimal human intervention. Rock formations created from stalagmites and stalactites take pride of place here, as do wild life, such as trapdoor spiders, fruit bats, cave racer snakes, hide beetles, mole crickets and assassin bugs. If you are a naturalist or a wildlife enthusiast, these tours will give you plenty to observe.

Millions of years old rock formations

Usually, the caves are not too crowded, unless you happen to be there during the Thaipusam festival, which celebrates the handing over of the spear. This three-day festival is held in either late January or early February, and thousands of people from all over the world come to take part in it. There are chanting crowds in processions bearing statues and icons, as well as those who carry pots of milk or kavadi, important in fulfilling vows and repenting for past sins.

It might be best to read a bit about the Hindu gods who are worshipped here, if you are keen to get a more in-depth understanding of the religious value of Batu. Either way, though, there is plenty to see and enjoy. The perfect finish for me was a cooling drink of coconut water, cut open then and there and drunk straight from the fruit itself. It’s a great trip to take, and an awesome way to experience nature’s work at its best.